Make your Corvette
faster,
easier to work on,
and make it shine
Provided by Corvette Fever Magazine
We've poked, we've prodded, and we've generally
nosed around until we found 101 ways to make your Corvette faster, easier to
work on, and make the details shine. Some of the ideas we discovered are
safety-oriented while others are simply good, old-fashioned "time
savers"; but nonetheless, they all make life in the Corvette fast lane a
bunch easier. Pick and choose the tips that suit your Corvette. We're positive
that you too can work on your pride and joy without breaking the bank!
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1. THE BIG SQUEEZE
When considering the compression ratio for a new
Corvette normally aspirated engine and factoring in today's gasoline octane,
there are some variables you should consider. Here's the rundown:
* A higher compression ratio requires
higher-octane fuel
* More spark advance requires higher-octane fuel
* Lower humidity requires higher- octane fuel
* Higher altitude allows the use of lower octane
* Leaning of the air/fuel ratio requires the use
of higher octane
2. GETTING TORQUED
The folks at NGK point out
that torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark-plug
installation. Torque directly affects the spark plug's ability to transfer heat
out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that's under-torqued
will not be fully seated on the cylinder head; hence heat transfer will be
slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion-chamber temperatures to unsafe
levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine
damage is not far behind.
An over-torqued spark
plug can suffer from severe stress to the metal shell which in turn can distort
the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark
plug's insulator. In either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the
above-mentioned conditions can occur. NGK also states that the spark-plug holes
must always be cleaned prior to installation; otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may
actually end up under-torqued, even though your
torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in
a cool engine, because metal expands when it's hot and installation may prove
difficult.
3. DULL DRUMS
Plenty of vintage Corvettes are equipped with
drum brakes (actually, everything prior to '65, and even a few '65 models), and
for the most part, servicing these components is pretty much a no-brainer. One
thing to remember, however, is that when you replace the shoes, use a bit of
Scotch-Brite to clean the contact points on the wheel
backing plates. Next, lube these contact points lightly with white grease. This
allows for smooth shoe action. Just be careful not to drop any grease on the
shoes. If you do, use some spray-on brake cleaner to clean it. Otherwise, the
friction material won't be too happy!
4.
If you're encountering a tough brake bleeding
operation on one or more of your Corvette calipers, try this: A turkey baster can be used to pump brake fluid into the bleed screw
to force the bubbles out of their hiding places.
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5.
If you're going to store your Corvette for months
at a time, disconnect the battery. This will reduce the discharge. On the other
hand, you can also charge the battery once every two to four weeks and leave it
hooked up. If you have the battery stored and disconnected, a charge every
month or two will help keep the self-discharge from draining the battery. Also
look for regulated trickle chargers that are designed for this type of
application.
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6. BROWN OUT
If you find brown, foamy residue in the coolant
of your Corvette you may have also located a cracked cylinder head, which can
cause overheating. Have your radiator pressure checked at your local radiator
shop. Pressure loss can cause overheating. Before you start peeling apart the
engine, give this some consideration: Many times a failed radiator cap is the
culprit. A cap that has failed to hold system pressure can cause coolant loss
and overheating conditions.
7. TIRE HIEROGLYPHICS
The air pressure listed on the sidewall of a
tire is not the correct air pressure for your Corvette. The number listed on
the sidewall is the maximum air pressure for the tire. Follow Chevrolet's
published recommendations. You and your Corvette will be much happier.
8. ROOFER'S FIX
Many vintage Corvettes came factory-equipped
with Holley carbs (and more than a few other
Corvettes were retrofitted with Holleys). If the bowl
screw on the carb leaks (normally due to a torn
gasket), find a common roofing nail. Use the rubber washer from the nail to fix
the leak. Problem solved.
9. CYLINDER CONFLAGRATION
Is your Corvette misfiring? Are you scratching
your head trying to figure out which cylinder is the culprit? If the car is
equipped with headers, here's a quick test. With the engine running, squirt a
small amount of water on each header tube (close to the exhaust port). On
cylinders that are functioning properly, you'll see the water evaporate
instantly. Not so on the dead cylinder(s).
10. PLUGGED ARTERIES
Most cam break-in lubricants are moly-disulfide concoctions. We recommend you use them when
installing a new cam in your Corvette. But remember: They can easily plug an
oil filter within 20 minutes of operation. When the filter is plugged, it will
typically bypass and the result will be copious quantities of dirt inside the
engine. After breaking in the camshaft (or a new engine), replace the filter
after 20 minutes of running time. It's cheap insurance.
11. SQUEAL ON YOU
If you have a persistent squeak from your brakes
and you've tried everything to stop it, try this: Remove the pads and clean the
back to remove dirt and dust. Brake cleaner works perfectly. It dries fast and
does not leave a residue. After cleaning, spray or brush on a good coating of
disc-brake anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads (most auto parts stores
sell it). Allow it to dry for half an hour, then
replace the pads and anti-squeal shims (if used on your car). The squeak should
be banished for a couple of years.
12. IN HOT WATER
The folks from Fel-Pro
point out that a water-temperature gauge indicates only the average temperature
of the coolant in the engine. A water-temp gauge does not indicate the cylinder-head
casting temperature. The casting temperature is what the head gasket is
subjected to.
13. NAIL BITER
Believe it or not, nail-polish remover makes an
effective and inexpensive small-parts cleaner. The polish remover is acetone,
and the most potent, least expensive stuff comes without scents or oils. By the
way, in diluted form it will remove bugs and tar from chrome, and remove grease
and oil instantly. Just keep in mind acetone is also a wonderful paint remover,
and, for a perfectly restored Corvette, that's the last thing you need to
spill.
14. MORE MATH
Tire diameter of the metric or P-metric tire can
be calculated by using the tire size nomenclature. The section width and aspect
ratio are molded into the sidewall. The section height (SH) of a tire is the
section width multiplied by the aspect ratio. The overall diameter (OD)
includes two section heights converted to inches, plus one rim diameter. The
following formula is valid for all metric and P-metric tires: OD = (2 x SH) + Rim Diameter
15. BRAKE LINE BOBBLES
When it comes to brake
lines, what size should you use? That's simple: Use 3/16-inch steel line
wherever possible. Use flex line only where necessary.
16. CORROSIVE CONCERNS
If you're plagued with bulbs on your Corvette
that constantly need attention, think about this: Is there corrosion at the
base of the light bulbs? If so, apply a wee bit of electrical grease to the
bulb base. This goes for the prongs of blade fuses as well. Your problems
should be solved.
17. DIMWIT
If you have a dim headlight, the cause is a bad
ground (and on a Corvette, there are plenty of them). Clean the ground and the
headlight will work well again.
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18. BACKSPACE STATISTICS
Don't take aftermarket wheel backspace
dimensions with a grain of salt! When you buy new or used wheels, be sure to
check the backspace dimensions of all of the wheels. This is particularly
important when it comes to multiple-part wheels (wheels where the center is
bolted, riveted, and welded to the wheel rim). Why so? Simple.
Some folks have found that wheels can be out by as much as 3/16 inch. And that
can cause you nothing but grief when fitting wheels to your Corvette.
Double-check the wheel backspace. You'll be glad you did.
19. BEARING THE BRUNT
Wheel bearings don't last forever (most grizzled
Corvette owners can attest to that). To check wheel bearings, grab the wheel at
the top and bottom, and push and pull to determine if the wheel will move in or
out at the hub. If there is noticeable movement, it indicates the bearings are
loose and in need of adjustment. It could also indicate the bearings are badly
worn. Translation? It's time to tear things apart.
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20. DRILL STOP
While commercial drill stops are readily
available, it's pretty easy to make one by wrapping a piece of tape around a
drill bit at the depth you need the hole. It's cheap. It's easy. It works. What
more could you ask for?
22. HOLE SHOT
When shopping for high-performance wheels for
your Corvette, one thing most people forget is the actual size of the center
wheel hole. Believe it or not, the center hub holes in wheels are not all the
same. In fact, certain vehicles have significantly smaller hub holes than
others. A good example is the late-model Corvette. A wheel designed for the
Corvette often has a much smaller hub hole than a similar wheel designed for
use on a late-model Camaro. Check first before you buy.
23. LUBE JOB
There are two main types of lubrication in
things mechanical: oil and grease. Which chemical is used where depends upon
the speed of rotation, the operating temperature, and whether heat must be
removed from the area concerned. If a function of the lubrication is to control
or cool friction-generated heat, then oil is the chosen product since it can
flow away, dissipating heat while recirculated oil is
introduced to induce relative coolness. On the other hand, grease is used when
the bearing operates under normal speed and temperature conditions.
24. SILICONE SCRAPER
Some people prefer to use "gasket in a
tube" instead of header gaskets. While it seems like a good idea, think
about the cleanup time required to peel the high- temperature silicone from the
cylinder heads and header flange once you remove the pipes. We've watched
racers spend half an hour or longer trying to scrape all of the goop clean. A
simple header gasket can be replaced in seconds.
25. SHIMMY-SHIMMY-SHIMMY
Worn idler-arm bushings cause
front-end steering shimmy and can negate the responsive "feel" the
steering demonstrates. So what's the point? Never overlook the idler arm on an
early Corvette when it comes to steering maladies.
26. MORE GOOP TRICKS
Here's another grease trick: It works well as a
sealer for Corvette carb gaskets. If you use a small
amount of grease on the gasket(s), it can be reused a number of times and it
won't stick to either the carb or intake manifold.
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27. CORROSIVE TREPIDATION
28. RAINY DAYS
Did you know there is more than one use for
Rain-X? It can also be used as a lubricant between door-glass and associated
rubber window-glass seals on your Corvette. If you apply Rain-X to both sides
of the side windows, you'll never have that not-so-pleasant experience of a
seal tucking down and jamming the operation. Better still, Rain-X helps
preserve the rubber glass seals.
29. FRONT-END SHIMMY
If you've had the front end
completely rebuilt or restored (fresh parts, proper wheel balance and
alignment) and still notice a vibration, try this: There might be
pebbles lodged in the tires. Check your tire treads for small pebbles. By the
way, you should also consider washing the dirt, grime, and rocks from the
inside of your wheels so the balance won't be affected.
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30. DRAG DUTY
Engine valvetrain
damage is rather common, particularly if the engine is modified. According to
the pros, the majority of this damage can be attributed to weak valvesprings. Some enthusiasts believe a very stiff spring
stresses the valvetrain and soaks up power as the
spring compresses. That might not be correct. Very little drag is actually
added by stiff valvesprings. Why? That's easy: There
are always the same numbers of lifters opening as there are closing valves.
Think about it. It makes sense.
31. FANCY FILLETS
If you have a close look at all V-8 engines (Chevys included) you'll find the connecting rods can be
installed in one of two ways. The big end (crank pin) of the rod has one side
finished with a healthy radius. The other side doesn't. The rod end with the
radius matches the fillet radius on the crank. The flat end faces the other
connecting rod it's paired with on the journal. To install them correctly,
always face the radius end toward the crank fillet.
32. GRAB THOSE GEARS
If you've swapped tires and increased or
decreased the diameter, then the true axle ratio in your Corvette has changed.
Perplexed? Here's a formula to help with the axle gear ratio: MPH x Gear Ratio
/ True Tire Diameter x 336 = RPM
33. COMPRESSION CONUNDRUM
Universal joints that are equipped with a grease
fitting should be installed with the fitting compressed. In other words, they
should be installed so they are ahead of the driveshaft in the direction of
rotation.
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34. PRESSURE-PACKED
Have you noticed that as oil becomes dirty
(prior to a necessary change) the oil pressure in your Corvette goes up?
Similarly, have you noticed that after the oil has been changed, the pressure
seems to go down? The reason is, clean (new) oil has a lower true viscosity
than used oil. As oil is used in the engine, it gathers contaminants and this
causes the oil to oxidize. Simple enough, we'd say, but also a good reason to
keep on top of the oil change schedule.
35. BREAD BAGS
You know those little plastic clips that keep
bread bags together? You might want to start saving them. Here's why: Think
back to the time you mixed up the ignition wires when you swapped distributor
caps on your Corvette. If you had used these tags on the wires, and wrote down
the appropriate cylinder number (for example, 1-3-5-7) on the tag, then you
would have saved oodles of time.
36. CLEAN COUNTS
Fin count plays an important role in cooling. As
a rule of thumb, a radiator will normally have between 8 and 14 fins per inch.
When the fin count number is increased, the radiator can "radiate"
more heat to both the surface airflow and the surrounding air. Unfortunately,
as fin count increases, so does the opportunity for plugging, especially with
bugs, dirt, and other foreign road junk. Bottom line?
Keep your Corvette radiator clean.
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37. SOFT DRIVER
It's pretty common to use a flat-blade
screwdriver to remove interior panels in a Corvette (to pop out the retainers).
Trouble is, the panels are usually soft (and
expensive). On the other hand, screwdrivers are usually small and sharp. If the
screwdriver slips while you're prying a panel, things get expensive quickly.
The solution is simple: Wrap the end of the screwdriver with electrical tape.
You'll be much happier. So will your door-panel upholstery.
38. RISKY BUSINESS
If you spy a tire with a foreign object such as
a nail embedded in the tire tread, don't try to pull it out (we know, the
temptation to do something like that is pretty compelling). Why? Remember that
a tire is a pressurized vessel. If the nail is loosened, it could become a
high-pressure-powered missile. Anyone and anything nearby is a candidate for
injury. In addition, the escaping air can also pick up debris (dirt and other
junk) from the area of the puncture. It too will be forced outward. What's the
solution? Deflate the tire before you yank out foreign objects.
39. COOLANT TRIBULATION
We all know that neglected coolant can lead to a
clogged cooling system and a loss of cooling system efficiency, but it can also
cause other less obvious problems. If the coolant age or condition can't be
easily determined, there is a quick check for coolant contamination using a
digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM). Attach the positive DVOM lead to the radiator, then dip the negative lead into the coolant at the filler
neck. A voltage reading of 0.2 volt or less is good. A reading of 0.5 volt
should be considered borderline, and anything over 0.7
volt is unacceptable. If the coolant fails this test, the cooling system should
be thoroughly flushed and cleaned. Remove any engine temperature sensors and
inspect them for contamination or other damage.
40. GASKET GOOP
When installing Corvette valve-cover gaskets,
it's common to use silicone for the sealing agent. Trouble is,
the gaskets tend to tear if they have silicone on both sides. Try this instead:
Use silicone to glue the gasket to the valve cover, then use a bit of grease on
the side that mates to the head. The gasket won't leak and won't rip off the
next time you lash the valves.
42. RIGHT ROD RATIOS
People cling to rod ratios (rod-to-crankshaft
stroke percentages) as if they are magical. Rod ratios or "l/r"
ratios are for the most part the naturally occurring result of other
engine-design criteria. In other words, much like with ignition timing (spark
advance) they are what they are. Unless you want to completely redesign the
engine (including your block deck height, piston compression height, rod
length, and so on) don't worry so much about rod ratios. Your time would be
better spent searching for more airflow from the cylinder heads, but that's
another story.
43. FLOAT FINE-TUNE
If the engine in your early Corvette runs uneven
or surges, the float-level setting could be the culprit. Remove the bowl, flip
it over, and have a look at the float location. Adjust it (with the external
hardware) to a point where the top (now bottom) of the float is parallel
(square) with the inside of the bowl. This is the preliminary adjustment.
Fine-tuning will be accomplished when the engine is running. Repeat the process
with the second bowl. And if it's a Tri-power car, repeat once more.
44. SOLDERING STUFF
When working on the electrical system of your
Corvette and you need to solder wire together, use resin core solder. It's the
best bet for the application. Keep in mind this stuff isn't cheap. But in this
case, you likely don't need to buy it in huge quantities. It's an old tip, but
it's still appropriate.
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45. FOILING FILTERS
How many of you have an oil filter wrench that
slips? Plenty, we'll bet. Instead of buying another wrench and finding that it
slips after a short period of time, try this: Wrap several layers of electrical
tape around the circumference of the wrench. Then try the wrench. Magic! The
wrench doesn't slip.
46. VANISHING FUEL
Let's say you don't use your vintage Corvette
for some time, particularly in the summer. If that's the case, gas tends to
evaporate from the fuel bowl (remember, these cars don't have an electric fuel
pump as do late-model EFI models). As a result, you'll spend considerable time
cranking the engine in order for the fuel pump to fill the float bowl
(mechanical pumps). To stop the strain on the starter and battery, try this:
Use a small funnel with an inner diameter of 3/8 inch, place it over the
float-bowl vent tube, and pour a small amount of gas into the bowl. Bingo. The
Corvette will usually start immediately.
47. WRENCH FIT
When thinking about tools, the actual
"fit" of the wrench is something most folks ignore. Believe it or
not, if you have trouble with wrenches that routinely slip off fasteners (and
consequently give you a case of busted, bleeding knuckles) and regularly round
off fastener corners, the problem is likely the tool. You see,
a good-quality wrench such as the Mac combination wrenches have closer
tolerances than some department store tools. Keep this stuff in mind. You'll
appreciate it if you've been spending far too much time reaching for the first
aid kit in your shop.
48. COOL-HEADED
See that weatherstrip
seal between the fan and radiator? This high- temperature seal increases fan
efficiency considerably. It's like adding a shroud to a conventional engine-
driven fan. Try it. It could solve a hot-headed Corvette in a heartbeat.
49. FLUSH WITH FLUID
If you have a vintage Corvette, flush the brake
fluid! Years (perhaps decades) of rust, scale, and crud manage to collect in
the brake lines. In turn, this stops the brake system from working to its
design potential. The simplest way to flush brake lines is to open up the
bleeder screws and let Mother Nature do the work. Keep the brake reservoir full
with fresh fluid (DOT 3 or better). Repeat the process until the expelled fluid
is clean. Expect to use a few cans of fresh brake fluid.
50. DRESSING DOWN
After the tires on your Corvette are cleaned,
allow them to dry completely before applying any dressings. Once the dressing
is applied, allow it to soak for at least half an hour before you wipe off any
excess. Of course, this doesn't apply to dressing overspray--wipe that stuff
off immediately!
51. McTORQUE
When tightening any assembly held together with
a number of fasteners (for example, Corvette engine parts), Mac Tools states
that each fastener should be tightened down a little at a time, going to each
fastener in turn, until the specified torque has been reached. Mac Tools
suggests you follow this practice when torquing
fasteners:
* Apply 3/4 of the specified torque to each
fastener.
* Reset the wrench and tighten each fastener to
the specified torque.
After tightening all the fasteners, repeat the
final tightening to make certain all fasteners are at the specified torque.
52. CONE HEADS
Popular replacement conical-style air filters
used in some late-model Corvette performance "kits" should be
shielded from air movement created by the fan, particularly in EFI applications
(where they're the most common). If they aren't shielded, the mass-air meter
gives incorrect signals to the computer.
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53. LIGHT HEADED
When dealing with aluminum cylinder heads and/or
aluminum cylinder blocks, cold lash numbers can vary greatly from the hot
figures. Why? Because aluminum moves around significantly more than cast iron
when hot. Because of this, you can understand why (and how) valve-lash figures
often become decidedly different with "aluminum" combinations.
Although it's difficult to provide hard and fast numbers for all cam and engine
combinations, Chevrolet offers this advice: "Cold-lash all-aluminum
engines are 0.010 inch tighter than hot-lash specifications." Generally
speaking, you can use this as a starting point. Some aluminum-head/iron-block
combinations are close to an all-iron engine in terms of cold lash while others
might be anywhere from 0.005- to 0.010-inch tighter. Do what we do: Contact
your cam grinder and ask for a specific cold-lash number for your particular
combination.
54. CARBON EXODUS
Here's a tip from the ancient past, and it still
works: If you have an engine that's filled with carbon, the best way to clean
up the works is to flush it away with water. Fill a small squirt bottle with
water (a common sports-drink squirt bottle works great). Remove the air
cleaner. Start the engine. With one hand on the throttle (lever), lightly
trickle the water from the sports bottle into the carburetor or throttle body.
Simultaneously, keep the engine rpm to a point where it will run (remember,
water doesn't burn). The idea here isn't to flood the engine with water; the
last thing you need to do is hydraulic the engine. The idea is to steam the
carbon free in the engine.
55. DISTRIBUTOR ELECTROLYSIS
If at all possible, don't use spark-plug wires
with brass terminals along with a distributor cap with aluminum inserts
(normally a cheap cap). Why? Moisture will create corrosion. The result will be
poor spark and even worse performance.
56. DOWN THE DRAIN
There is a seal between the oil pan and drain
plug on your Corvette. If the plug is overtightened
(for example, by the gorilla at the local quick lube), there's a good chance
the seal (often plastic or copper) will be distorted. The
result? A persistent drip. The
solution? Buy a new seal.
57. SPRING'S THE THING
Buy a number of alligator or spring clamps in
several different sizes and keep them in your toolbox. They come in handy when
sizing pieces (such as upholstery material) to be cut. They also hold things
firmly until adhesive sets up. It's like having a second pair of hands during a
Corvette restoration.
58. CLOGGED DRAINS
Do you have a C4 Corvette with what appears to
be a fuel-related hard start or lean condition? Have a fuel sample test done to
see if any water has contaminated the fuel. If it has, check the rear fuel-fill
compartment seal to see if the drain is plugged. A clogged drain can cause rain
or car wash water to back up into the fuel-tank filler tube.
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59. HOLE IN ONE
Valve stems are valve stems, right? Maybe not. Many Corvette enthusiasts forget about the actual
size of the valve-stem hole. This might not seem like a big deal, but given the
differences in wheels, it's a good idea to grab your calipers and measure the
diameter of the hole. Why? Most screw-in metal valve stems are sold in varying
diameters.
60. MATCHING NUMBERS
Ring-and-pinion gears are matched pairs, and
should never be mixed with gears from other sets.
62. STAINLESS STUFF
Why do so many aftermarket brake calipers for
Corvettes use stainless steel for pistons and/or sleeves? Stainless is a good
choice for these applications due to slower heat transfer than mild steels.
Something to consider when shopping for replacement calipers.
63. POLISHING PROCESS
There are dissenting views on this topic, but
many professional race-engine builders believe that engine bearings that are
not aftermarket coated should be polished ("coating" refers to
various friction-reduction coatings). The polishing process removes the
shipping coating, which in turn improves bearing life. The idea is to use a
crosshatch pattern on the bearing surface with white Scotch-Brite
(fine).
64. SHIM & GRIN
Here's an old concept that always seems to go
unnoticed: In Chevrolet applications (for example, small-block and big-block),
there is a need to shim the starter so it meshes correctly with the flexplate or flywheel. Here's how it's done: You need
approximately 0.035-inch clearance between the peak of the tooth on the starter
drive gear and the valley of the flywheel ring gear. FYI, a good old-fashioned
paper clip is approximately 0.035 inch. In order to check the clearance,
disconnect the large wire from the battery to the starter (disabling the
starter). Leave the power to the solenoid so it will function when you engage
the starter. A remote starter switch works perfectly for this application. Shim
as required.
65. SLIGHTLY SIMMERED
Installing a fresh pickup on an oil pump can be
a curse, especially if the pickup tube is a press-fit such as those found on
most Chevy V-8 engines. While there are special tools available to press the
pickup tube into the pump, you can get Mother Nature to help during the
installation process. Spray the end of the pickup tube with an aerosol lube and
slide it inside your freezer for an hour or so. In the meantime, slip the bare
oil-pump body in a pan of water and household cooking oil. Bring the pump to a
boil and, with the help of some oven mitts, quickly slide the cold pickup tube
into the hot oil-pump body. It's a slippery fit and usually doesn't require the
use of a hammer or any special tools.
66. GROOVY SERPENTINES
When changing serpentine
belts, count the number of grooves. In some applications there are a couple types of
belts: Some have seven grooves and some have eight, depending upon the year of
the vehicle. In addition, vehicle accessories determine belt length. By the
way, when you replace a used-up belt, keep the old one. It will usually have
sufficient life left to get you back to civilization. One more thing: If you
have a problem routing a serpentine belt in your Corvette, pay close attention
the engine compartment. There's usually a sticker somewhere with a diagram
showing the belt routing.
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67. BAD--WHAT'S BAD?
When tracing electrical
gremlins in a Corvette, keep this in mind: Wires almost never go bad. Connections do. Don't
be tempted to run a new wire, thinking you're solving the problem. Quite often,
if you trace a short, you'll find a bad or corroded connector that you can
clean or replace. You'll save yourself time and, at the same time, you won't
hack your wiring harness.
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68. SPLINTERED SPLINES
Have you ever come across a new clutch disc that
doesn't want to slide easily over the input splines
on your Corvette transmission? If you have, don't worry. You're not alone. The
problem is a burr on either the gearbox input shaft or the clutch-disc splines. To ease the job, take the time to carefully deburr the splines on both the
clutch disc and input shaft. From now on, the installation will be a snap. The
problem is common on both well-used components and new clutch discs.
69. CHARGE RECAP
A quick way to check a charging system is with a
voltmeter. For a 12-volt system, it should read 12 volts with the engine off,
and 13-14 volts with the engine running.
70. LEAK DETECTION
Can't find small oil leaks in a restored Corvette
engine? Check the PCV valve and make sure it's functioning properly. If the PCV
system checks out, try plugging up your PCV system temporarily. Start the
engine and check for leaks. The crankcase pressure will build up and any small
oil leaks will probably get big enough to find easily. Obviously, it also helps
to start with a clean engine to make the leak more apparent.
71. FLUID FOLLIES
Question any seasoned racer about brake fluid
and one of the first things that will come out of his mouth is "Ford High
Performance Brake Fluid" (sometimes referred as "Ford Heavy Duty
Brake Fluid"). Let's back up for a minute: The really good racing brake
fluid available today is called "Castrol
SRF." It is a somewhat rare super-fluid designed primarily for racing, but
most people don't buy it because of the high cost. The reality is, Ford Motor
Company purchases this fluid by the barrel, repackages it, and sells it as Ford
Heavy Duty Fluid to owners of heavy-duty trucks. Anyone may buy it from a Ford
dealer under PN C6AZ-19542-AA. The packaging states: "High Performance Dot
3," and the cost is considerably less than the Castrol-packaged fluid.
Another good quality brake fluid is Castrol LMA. It's good at rejecting moisture and may be
kept in your brake system for several years. The LMA stands for "Low
Moisture Absorption." It is sold in plastic containers that do not have a
long shelf life. Do not purchase a large quantity of this fluid at one time,
since moisture can make its way through the plastic containers. Ford Heavy Duty
DOT 3 is quite inexpensive and is popular (particularly among racers) because
of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers
don't care since they change their fluid frequently. It's sold in metal cans
and, as a result, it does have a long shelf life (provided the seal isn't
broken). In terms of specifications, Ford Heavy Duty is classified as a DOT 3
fluid. The dry boiling point of this fluid is 550 degrees F while the wet
boiling point is 284 degrees F. Castrol LMA is
classified as a DOT 4 fluid. It has a dry boiling point of 446 degrees F and a
wet boiling point of 311 degrees F. And by the way, your Corvette won't disown
you for using Ford fluid!
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72. CURB CRUSHER
If you smack a curb or hit a pothole with your
Corvette, the front-end alignment can be thrown out (it's easier than you might
think). The result, of course, is eventual tire damage. With the cost of tires
today, it's good preventive maintenance to have the alignment on your car
checked regularly. Some folks have the alignment checked every time the tires
are rotated, or at 6,000-8,000-mile intervals.
73. BOOSTER SHOT
A number of Corvette folks report plug fouling
problems when using various octane boosters. If that happens, go straight to
the spark plugs without passing go! The solution is to clean and/or replace the
plugs (and perhaps search for another octane booster).
74. CASTING CALL
How can you tell if a Corvette crankshaft is
cast or forged? A cast crank will usually have a line on the counterweights
where it was poured into a mold. A forged crank does not have the fine lines on
the counterweights.
75. BAG LADY
Changing oil is a messy job. That's a given--but
to make it less messy, try this: Slide a plastic bag over the filter after you
break it loose with the filter wrench. Hold the top of the bag firmly against
the engine block with one hand, and use your other hand to unscrew the filter.
The oil slop will be contained inside the plastic bag.
76. OIL SPACE
Believe it or not, too much oil in the pan of
your Corvette is just as bad (perhaps worse) than too little. If the oil level
is too high, it can be above some windage trays. At
the least, the oil can be picked up by the rotating assembly. Next, it is
whipped into a frenzy--creating foam, which really
means the oil becomes aerated. Hot, aerated oil will not maintain pressure and,
because of this, will definitely create low-pressure problems.
77. GASKET CHAOS
Some intake gaskets purposely block off coolant
ports to enable the engine coolant to flow in a predetermined path through the
engine. If these ports are not blocked off it could create a short circuit in
the cooling system. So what's the answer? Buy the right gaskets for the
application. Otherwise, the temperature gauge in your Corvette could be headed
toward the stratosphere.
78. WALL VENEER
It's common knowledge that it isn't a good idea
to break in a flat-tappet-cam engine with synthetic lubricants. Did you know
that applies to all engines? According to the pros, all engines, no matter the
camshaft type (roller or flat tappet), are best served by using mineral oil
during the break-in. Why? The experts claim that the cylinder-wall finish/ring
combination used today still needs some time to get acquainted and effectively
break in. If it's good enough for professional racers, it's good enough for us.
79. DRESS CODE
When polishing and
detailing custom Corvette billet wheels, be sure to use only extra-soft
polishing cloths. Old fleece sweatshirt material is perfect. Do not use cross-weave
materials (for example, T-shirts and/or diapers) on soft metals, since they can
easily scratch the surface.
80. EXPLOSIVE FORCE
Never add air to a tire and rim assembly that
has been operated in a seriously under-inflated or flat condition. Why? The
condition just might provoke the tire to separate (often explosively). The
result can be serious injury. The real solution is to have the tire deflated
and carefully inspected by a professional. By the way, we're talking from
experience here, folks. Be extra cautious
82. FUEL FAMINE
According to several fuel-pump manufacturers,
one of the leading causes of in-tank electric fuel pump failure is fuel
starvation. Most tanks have baffles or a built-in sump that keeps the pump
pickup submerged in fuel. These pumps use the fuel as a cooling agent. So far,
so good; but if the gas tank contains only a gallon or two of fuel and the
vehicle is driven hard around a corner, the fuel may slosh away from the pickup
and momentarily starve the fuel pump. Repeat this process a number of times,
and the pump will ultimately suffer (no more cooling and it will eventually
expire).
83. TIP TEMPERATURE
Spark-plug gap size has a direct effect on the
plug-tip temperature and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the
air/fuel mixture. Because of this, gaps are important. Plugs are not pre-gapped
at the factory, and the gap must be set and adjusted for a specific Corvette.
NGK points out that a modified engine with higher compression or forced
induction will typically require smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a general rule, the more power you are
making, the smaller the gap you will need. NGK also states that a spark plug's
voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the
gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know
that opening up gaps to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture
maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add
high-power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet
still provide a strong spark. With this mind, many think the larger the gap the
better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can
tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the
largest gap you can run may still be smaller than that claimed.
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84. IDLE IDIOSYNCRASY
If you're plagued with a vintage Corvette engine
that starts, then stalls, check and reset the idle-mixture screws. Turn the
screw in until it seats. Repeat with the second screw, then back both out 11/2
turns. This should provide a baseline so you can set the idle mixture on a
running engine.
85. FINESSING FILTERS
When servicing K&N filters, be sure you do
not over-oil the element. Aside from restricting airflow, excess oil can
migrate into the intake system where it can coat electronic sensors. The result,
of course, can be catastrophic. When servicing the filter, if oil drips from
it, wash the filter and start over. Use only K&N oil. Follow the oiling
instructions included with the filter or, if you've misplaced them, refer to
the instructions listed in the back of the catalog.
86. YANKING YOUR CABLE
Speaking of the "old days" and ancient
tricks, here's something you shouldn't do: It was once common to pull off a
battery cable when a Corvette engine was running to check the charging system.
If the alternator was working, the engine would continue to run. If it wasn't
charging, the engine would stall. Some people think you can do that today. Not
so! Those old Corvettes had relatively robust mechanical voltage regulators.
Newer examples have internal voltage regulators, and if you yank the cable,
you'll create a spike or surge in the system. Everyone knows what that will do
to a computer.
The modern automotive electronic voltage
regulator has some of the same components as a computer. Pulling a battery cable
while the engine is running will send a voltage "spike" throughout
the electrical system of the automobile. This can, and often does, damage the
voltage regulator. But it can also take out other electronic bits. Included in
the mix are computers, ABS control units, electronic instrument clusters, sound
systems, and so on. Bottom line? Don't mess with the
electronics. They'll come back and bite you.
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87. NEW MATH
Here's a quick tip: In order to measure a
wheel-bolt pattern, measure from the center of the No. 1 lug hole
to the outside of the No. 3 lug hole. The number you get is the bolt circle
size.
88. JUST A WHINER
Do you have an impossible-to-find whine
originating from the underside of your Corvette? If you do, think about adding
a small amount of grease to the splines on the
transmission slip yoke. This eliminates the metal-to-metal contact from the splines in the yoke to the splines
on the output shaft.
89. EXPLOSIVE FORCE
Never add air to a tire-and-rim assembly that
has been operated in a seriously underinflated or
flat condition. Why? The condition just might provoke the tire to separate
(often explosively). The result can be serious injury. The real solution is to
have the tire deflated and carefully inspected by a professional. By the way,
we're talking from experience here, folks. Be extra cautious.
90. SQUEAL ON YOU
Squealing Corvette disc brakes are a pain in the you-know-what. In order to stop the ordeal, try these
two tips:
* After resurfacing a rotor, hand-sand both
sides smooth and flat, using 120- or 150-grit sandpaper on a sanding block.
* After sanding, clean the rotor thoroughly with
detergent and water. This serves to demagnetize the rotor and remove all of the
fine grit and dust that can cause chatter.
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91. SCOUR & SCRUB
Car wash sponges are cheap. Dedicate a sponge
for tire cleaning only and don't use this pad for anything else. This way, the
tire residue can stay in one spot, and you won't contaminate your car's paint
with wayward tire dressing, small rocks, and so on.
92. PAIR THEM UP
On vintage Corvettes, rear drum-brake wheel
cylinders should be replaced as pairs. Why? Simple. It
will equalize the hydraulic pressure pulse. If you don't, you run the risk of
replacing brake shoes that can be contaminated by brake fluid leakage from the
cylinder.
93. FUEL FIXATION
Have you ever had one of those moments when
you're searching for that elusive problem on your Corvette only to find out it
was a painfully simple fix? Here's one more to add to your collection: a
crimped fuel line. The fuel line is important to fuel delivery but often
overlooked. If it's crimped, your car will have no fuel (or much less than
required). The maladies perpetuated by this can be numerous. Give it a look
before ripping apart the car.
94. PULLEY STERILIZATION
Don't you just hate a squealing fan belt? If the
belts on your Corvette are tight and still squeal, try this: Buff the inside of
the pulleys with green Scotch-Brite. The abrasive pad
gives the fan belt a more positive surface and should eliminate the noise. It's
also a good idea to use a new belt once the pulleys are "deglazed."
95. FOOT SOJOURN
When bleeding Corvette brakes manually, be
careful not to overextend the master-cylinder piston. This can rip or tear
piston-cup seals that, in turn, can result in master cylinder failure. It's
simple to cure this problem: Just put your free foot under the brake pedal
during the bleeding process to act as a stop.
96. BIG LUG
Pretend you have aftermarket wheels on your
Corvette (not a big stretch). And pretend they use different lug nuts from
those fitted to your car by the OEM manufacturer (similarly, not a big
stretch). What about your spare? If it's stock, make
sure you have a spare set of lug nuts that fit the spare. Otherwise, you might
not be too happy if you're out in the middle of nowhere with a flat.
97. SHAKY SILICONE
Fan clutches lose speed over time because the
silicone fluid inside loses shear strength. After six or eight years of
service, the clutch may be slipping to the point it can't spin fast enough to
keep up with the engine's cooling requirements. This in turn may cause the
engine to overheat during hot weather, when idling in traffic, or when using
the A/C. Any fan clutch that's wobbling, making noise, leaking, or turns with
little or no resistance is overdue for replacement.
98. GETTING HOSED
Believe it or not, good old-fashioned, standard
rubber fullsize coolant hoses should be used to
ensure maximum flow. Smaller-than-stock braided-steel AN
hoses decrease flow and, as a result, can hinder proper cooling.
99. ROCK AROUND THE CLOCK
If you have roller rockers on your Corvette
engine, be sure to install them with the flat side of the seat facing up. If
you don't, it will kill the polylock (and quite
possibly the rocker). Just make certain the flat surface on the rocker-pivot
mechanism faces up. You'll have no broken parts or "missing lash"
with this tip.
100. FUEL FUNDAMENTAL
Poor fuel economy can be caused by a defective
jet, an incorrect jet, or a loose jet (more common than you might think). Use a
large, flat-blade screwdriver or, preferably, a dedicated jet driver to tighten
the jets so they aren't damaged in the process. Tighten the jets (Holley torque
specs call for 30-40 in-lb of torque). If the carb is
a Holley, and it has a secondary metering block, repeat the process.
101. BREAK AWAY
What isn't generally known or understood is that
break-away or break-loose torque is considerably less than the applied torque.
This means the torque required to loosen a bolt previously tightened to 90
lb-ft would be considerably less than the 90 lb-ft of applied torque. A torque
wrench should be tested on a torque-wrench testing machine to determine its
true accuracy.
